The way to Navidhang is another 9 km gradual uphill climb and less and less trees are visible as you move upwards leaving Kali far below and the tree line cease to exist at Navidhang. From here you have the opportunity to see Om Parvat; just opposite to the camp on eastern side. We were deprived of any darshan; on that day it chose to remain shrouded. I wondered what would happen on return.

At 4260 meters, it’s really cold and brisk winds welcome you and, it’s where we unpacked our bags and took out all the woolens and thermals and kept them beside under the blanket to keep them warm. The further climb was to be started at night so we ate early and slept.

Navidhang is the last post of ITBP and various facilities have been set up including a mini Hospital. Some Yatris felt dizziness and were administered Oxygen as their blood oxygen level dropped below 90%.

I was not able to sleep as till then I had only heard of night climbing term for hard core mountaineers and had no idea what it was going to be and was little nervous. Also tonight we will leave our land for almost 8-9 days and this is the first time for most of us, so a usual joy was missing. Air was thin outside the tent but was a bit heavier inside and hardly anybody could sleep. We were woken up (kidding) by ITBP Jawans at 12 a.m.. ITBP team consisting of Doctors and Jawans had to accompany us till the Lipulekh pass. The first batch consisting of 8-10 Yatris who didn’t opt for ponies departed an hour before.

The night is clear with full of long forgotten stars, the weather is crisp and to our relief winds are quiet. I put on all the layers I had in my bag having no idea what and how cold it would be. Some started as usual as it was morning- doing all those things, but it all sounded too much to me so I checked for some tea in the Kitchen and was delighted to found it ready.

Guptaji, a multi-time Amaranth Yatri, seemed very happy, joyous, delighted and motivated us all. With Panmasala in his mouth and dialect unique to Unnao (U.P.) he says, "Kuch nahi hai, dekha jayega. Sab aram se pahunchege, abhi tak sab badhiya hua hai aage bhi hoga, Jai BholeNath.”

With torches glowing all around it was a sight to remember. We left the camp at 12:30 and started slowly, with each meter gain in altitude, the oxygen was depleting and we kept on chanting Om Namah Shivay throughout that night. We kept close and encouraged each other as it was the ultimate test of faith. After first three or four kms, were advised to halt and wait for others to assemble for about half an hour; the bitter cold made it seem like eternity.

The fellows opted for ponies were moved almost an hour later and by the time they came to this point, we were all but frozen. We were shivering badly waiting for them to arrive, the temperature had dropped to well below freezing and despite wearing many layers, couldn’t sit and had to move a bit to keep the blood pumping, to our rescue winds took a break that night.

Finally all the fellows had come and we started further. This was a treacherous walk at the best of times and more so if the weather conditions are not propitious at the narrow pass, which is at about 17,500 feet. We kept on moving in groups, with still few kms left to climb, the Sun rose to show us our way ahead. It was a totally different site: bare mountains all around. We located our trek so far with our camps seen far below. It’s a total 9 km trek from Navidhang to Lipulekh and we reached at top around 7 a.m.. At 5,350 mts, it’s a small pass that connects India to Tibet and used as a trading route for centuries.

The crossing of the pass is a finely timed affair with the new batch of Yatris crossing into Tibet meeting the batch of Yatris returning to India after completing the Parikrama. The winds are bitter and thin but the pass faces east so we were lucky to have Sun, with hills on other side, it gave ample relief from cold.

We had to wait for 30 mints for Chinese military person to come. The time was spent talking about this night walking experience and guessing the height of this pass, which ranged from 5,000 mts to 5,500 mts as per various estimates, though very well known. A single Chinese army man came to escort us to Tibet, so finally it’s time to say good bye and everybody thanked ITBP for their valuable support. Its not easy as supposed to leave your motherland so we got pretty emotional at that time. It’s when pony and porters say goodbye and Chinese authorities take over and descent into Tibet begins. With Sun still rising, we left India on day nine.

It was a 3 km downhill walk to the point where buses were waiting with further 15 km drive to Takalakot at 3940 mts. Chinese are real stupid; they have some funny time Zone in Tibet and here at Taklakot, though it’s very near to India with Sun rises and sets at almost the same time, they match it with Beijing which is so far away in east- over 4500kms, with +2.5 hrs. So typically sun sets at 10 p.m. and rises at 8 a.m. as per their time and you virtually get up at noon. That’s when we decided- not to match our watch at all…

At Takalakot, Chinese officials collect US $ 801 as Yatra fees and Yatris are required to stay for two days to complete customs and immigration formalities. We were provided twin sharing accommodation at a Hotel with all basic facilities. Takalakot (old name Purang) is a small yet modern town with super infrastructure, markets, malls and even clubs and has heavy presence of Chinese Military and Police. You are not allowed to take photos here and will surprise to see many Indian traders staying and selling stuff ranging from spices, movie cds, clothes and artifacts. Bollywood movies are very popular here and Hindi songs are played all over that Bazaar and you can find almost everything of your need here.